Medical Care here in the US is very much on the rise for both man and beast. Depending on what area of the Nation you live would determine wether or not you would need Pet Insurance and what type of plan. Prices in the Midwest are not nearly as expensive as I have seen on both of the coasts and down south. It seems to almost double! To give you an idea I pay an average of $100 for either spay or neutering of a puppy/dog 7lbs or less. Rabies $15, Puppy 5 way shots $10, Fecal exam $10 etc. I have done some research online. If you are located in any large metro cities found in the east or west coast states and southern states such as Florida, I would recommend getting some plan but the ultimate decision is yours.

This page is dedicated to helping our prospective puppy parents — especially first-time parents — recognize the vital importance of a high quality canine health nutrition program for the best health of your new perfect puppy:

The BEST is NOT the Most Expensive . . .

We have seen the BEST results with Royal Canin . . . it’s not just another “dog food”: it’s Canine Health Nutrition that is unmatched for quality at a most reasonable price. Your investment in your new perfect puppy is best protected by high quality nutrition for good health and long life.

Our “Yorkie puppies” are raised on what science and research has proven to be the best Size Nutrition Dog Food offered here in the U.S. and guess what . . . it’s not the most expensive.

There are so many lower grade dog food formulas that are not what they appear to be. Many dog food formulas are thrown together to fit what ever current trend the Dog Industry is appearing to have. We have see fabulous results with hair coat quality teeth condition and much more!

I have had my adult dogs on this product for about 2 months, and I have seen the best results in their coats becoming silkier and shinier. Based on my experience as a breeder, I would highly recommend this supplement. However, I would like for you as puppy parents to read this information and decide for yourself and your puppy. Please click to the following link: www.nuvet.com for more information.

These exclusive products are not available through any pet store, large or small. Should you decide to try NuVet Labs™ products, you will need to contact us.

The following is a short excerpt from the NuVet Labs™ brochure:

“Allergies, skin and coat problems, arthritis, tumors, cancer, cataracts, strokes and heart disease are just a few of the 50 major diseases caused by free radicals. Unfortunately these diseases lead to suffering and premature death in our pets. The Veterinarians, Physicians, Pharmacists, and Nutritional Scientists of NuVet Labs™ have blended a precise combination of human grade, natural vitamins, minerals, herbs and antioxidants proven to combat the ravages of free radicals. Puppies and kittens to senior dogs and cats should start on the path of disease protection today.”

Before each puppy leaves our home, bound for their new home, they are given a through grooming — or shall we say — a day at the “beauty shop”. We first bath your puppy using Pet Silk pet shampoo. I have chosen this product because it works. I have seen the quick results in the condition of a puppy’s hair in just minutes. I use their Pet Silk conditioner on those puppies needing that extra moisture for their coat and skin.

We remove any excess hair from the ears to prevent dirt getting embedded in the ears and in the canal itself and thus providing a home for unwanted ear_mites (reference our Perfect Puppy Health tab on this page for more info). Then ears are flushed with ear cleansing solution made by “VETS Solutions”, and finally each ear is swabbed out with a cotton swab to further remove any dirt that was loosened during flushing.

Nails are trimmed to desired length. Every puppy parent needs to keep an eye on their puppy’s nail growth. You will be surprised on how fast they will grow! For small puppies, I use a large toenail clipper. If you cut them too short, the nail will begin to bleed: Don’t panic! ALWAYS have on hand a product called “Kwik Stop” styptic powder. You can find it at any PETsMART or pet shop. Place a small amount on tip of nail and bleeding will stop immediately.

If necessary, trim excess hair on paw pads. Also, but only if necessary, trim excess hair around rectal area to prevent any waste matter from building up and creating a “poop ball”, and which can lead to full rectal blockage.

Did you know that house soiling ranks as one of the top reasons dogs end up in a animal shelters?

The main emphasis of housetraining is to teach a puppy where TO GO, not where not to go!

It is strongly recommended that you be home with your puppy during the first two weeks following arrival. When you can spend the majority of the daylight hours with him/her, you will begin to see positive results twice as fast as someone who isn’t available as much and therefore cannot give as much supervision. Please remember that puppies do have accidents and that each puppy learns on an individual basis. Just be patient!

Toy breed puppies have smaller stomachs, and after the first few days, they seem to eat in a browsing fashion due to the many distractions and smells of their new environment. They become particularly sidetracked if there is another pet in the home. If your puppy knows he/she has continuous access to food for the first week, then he/she will not overeat. Start them on a feeding schedule the second week, generally two or three times a day depending on the individual puppy. Remove the meal after 30 minutes: this will help your puppy to better develop a regular eliminating schedule.

INDOOR TRAINING: We further recommend using a small confined area (such as a half bathroom or small utility room) that can be closed off with a baby gate. (I have had great success with the “Super yard”, a portable, floorless playpen, which can be arranged several ways. (see photo above). It can be purchased at Wal-Mart. Pet stores offer something similar made from a gold metal-like material. It is usually called a “pet exercise pen”.

Generally, 30-40 minutes after eating or drinking, your puppy will need to go to the bathroom. Pick up your puppy, place him/her inside the confined area (with 1-2 puppy pads covering an area large enough so the puppy won’t miss), tell your puppy to “go potty”, and give him/her up to 10 minutes. When puppy does his/her business, praise him/her and give a treat. (This is the only time I give treats to a young puppy. Bil-Jac brand liver treats in a carton work well, but any small, chewable treat will do.) At night, if the puppy is in your bedroom — whether on the bed or in a crate next to your bed — when you hear him whine or whimper in the middle of the night, take him and place him in your bathtub (where you have previously place two puppy pads)! This will help, and as the puppy gets older this night potty time can be eliminated. Remember that though you are doing most of the work in the beginning, your puppy will begin to catch on and go by himself/herself. After a couple of weeks, or when you feel your puppy is comfortable with the routine, remove the gate or open the exercise pen to allow your puppy to enter/exit the potty area alone.

OUTDOOR TRAINING: First, show your puppy where you want him/her to eliminate. Use a harness and leash to take her to the same place each time, generally near the front or back door. Stand there for about 5 minutes (It might take longer the first few days because your puppy is doing more exploring things such as new smells, surroundings, etc). If she/he does not go, try again every hour. When she/he does go, PRAISE them and give reward (Cooked chicken or Bil-Jac liver treats are good, too). If you have the puppy eliminate in the same area, he will smell his own scent and note that it his his/her territory, therefore he/she will be more comfortable and find it easier to be successful.

In your times of frustration, as you are cleaning up messes, remember that this is only a season in your puppy’s life and that, this too, shall pass! After all, if a child never made mistakes, they wouldn’t need parents! Good luck!

When it comes to your family pet it is always better to have your pet fixed. It really is what is best for them. Remember that when you decide to breed your pet you are placing them at risk. Please read the following info and then click on the link below to give you more info on why our pets should be spayed or neuter. Also We breed only for F1 hybrid ,so we dont hold back first generation hybrids to breed for F2 . For more info on why F1 are the best hybrids to get click here.

http://www.answers.com/topic/dog-hybrids-and-crossbreeds

Uncover five common myths and facts about spaying and neutering:

Myth: Dogs become fat and lazy after being spayed or neutered.

Fact: Fat animals are usually overfed and under-exercised. While some dogs put on weight after the operation, adjusting their diet and increasing their exercise will take care of it.

Myth: A pet’s behavior changes dramatically after surgery.

Fact: Neutered male dogs fight less and wander less since they aren’t interested in pursuing females in heat. Studies show spayed or neutered animals live longer, healthier lives.

Myth: A neutered dog isn’t a good watchdog.

Fact: The best time to spay your female dog is before her first heat cycle. It prevents uterine infections, such as pyometra, which can be fatal, and reduces the incidence of breast cancer. It also keeps unwanted males from harassing your pet.

Myth: Preventing dogs from having litters is unnatural.

Fact: Dogs were never “naturally” pets in the first place. They were domesticated 15,000 years ago. It’s more unnatural, one could argue, to kill so many dogs in shelters each year.

Myth: Neutering a male dog will make him feel like less of a dog.

Fact: Pets don’t have any concept of sexual identity or ego. Neutering will not change a pet’s basic personality. He doesn’t suffer any kind of emotional reaction or identity crisis when neutered.

SOURCE: The Humane Society of the United States.

For more info: http://www.petorphans.com/earlyneut.html

Your complete satisfaction is our Number One Priority! This page is dedicated to helping our prospective puppy parents — especially first-time parents — recognize the signs of coccidia, a potentially life-threatening intestinal microbe. The following is a definition and description of coccidia, their characteristics and recommended treatments:

What are Coccidia?

Coccidia are small protozoans (one-celled organisms) that multiply in the intestinal tracts of dogs and cats, most commonly in kittens and puppies less than six months of age, in adult animals whose immune system is suppressed or in animals who are stressed in other ways (e.g., change in ownership, other disease present).

In cats and dogs, most coccidia are of the genus called Isospora. Isospora canis and I. ohioensis are the species most often encountered in dogs. Regardless of which species is present we generally refer to the disease as coccidiosis. As a puppy ages it tends to develop a natural immunity to the effects of coccidia. As an adult it may carry coccidia in its intestines, shed the cyst in the feces, but experience no ill effects.

How are coccidia transmitted?

A puppy is not born with the coccidia organisms in its intestine. However, once born, the puppy is frequently exposed to its mother’s feces and if the mother is shedding the infective cysts in her feces then the young animals will likely ingest them and coccidia will develop within their intestines. Since young puppies, usually those less than six months of age, have no immunity to coccidia, the organisms reproduce in great numbers and parasitize the young animal’s intestines. Oftentimes, this has severe effects.

From exposure to the coccidia in feces to the onset of the illness is about 13 days. Most puppies who are ill from coccidia are, therefore, two weeks of age and older. Although most infections are the result of spread from the mother, this is not always the case. Any infected kitten or puppy is contagious to other puppies. In breeding facilities, shelters, animal hospitals, etc., it is wise to isolate those infected from those that are not.

What are the symptoms of coccidiosis?

The primary sign of an animal suffering with coccidiosis is diarrhea. The diarrhea may be mild to severe, depending on the level of infection. Blood and mucous may be present, especially in advanced cases. Severely affected animals may also vomit, lose their appetite, become dehydrated, and in some instances, die from the disease.

Most infected puppies encountered by the authors are in the four to twelve week age group. The possibility of coccidiosis should always be considered when a loose stool or diarrhea is encountered in this age group. A microscopic fecal exam by a veterinarian will detect the cysts confirming a diagnosis.

What is the treatment of coccidiosis?

It should be mentioned that stress plays a role in the development of coccidiosis. It is not uncommon for a seemingly healthy puppy to arrive at its new home and develop diarrhea several days later leading to a diagnosis of coccidia. If the puppy has been at the new home for less than thirteen days, then it had coccidia before it arrived. Remember the incubation period (from exposure to illness) is about thirteen days. If the puppy has been with its new owner several weeks, then the exposure to coccidia most likely occurred after the animal arrived at the new home. Usually coccidia were present only to surface during the stressful period of the puppy adjusting to a new home.

Fortunately coccidiosis is treatable. Drugs such as sulfadimethoxine (Albon) and trimethoprim-sulfadiazine (Tribrissen) have been effective in the treatment and prevention of coccidia. Because these drugs do not kill the organisms, but rather inhibit their reproduction capabilities, elimination of coccidia from the intestine is not rapid. By stopping the ability of the protozoa to reproduce, time is allowed for the puppy’s own immunity to develop and remove the organisms. Drug treatments of five or more days are usually required.

How is coccidiosis prevented or controlled?

Because coccidia are spread by the feces of carrier animals, it is very important to practice strict sanitation. All fecal material should be removed. Housing needs to be such that food and water cannot become contaminated with feces. Clean water should be provided at all times. Most disinfectants do not work well against coccidia; incineration of the feces, and steam cleaning, immersion in boiling water or a 10% ammonia solution are the best methods to kill coccidia. Coccidia can withstand freezing.

Cockroaches and flies can mechanically carry coccidia from one place to another. Mice and other animals can ingest the coccidia and when killed and eaten by a dog, for instance, can infect the dog. Therefore, insect and rodent control are very important in preventing coccidiosis.

The coccidia species of dogs and cats do not infect humans.

The following is a veterinarian’s description of ear mites, their characteristics and recommended treatments:

Question: My dog has ear mites. What are these and how did she get them?

Answer: Ear mites are an external parasite that can infect dogs, cats and more rarely, humans. The mite’s name is Otodectes cynotis. Otodectes mites are large enough that they can sometimes be seen with the naked eye and are easy to see with magnification.

Ear mites live in the ears and on the skin of pets infected with them. The mite lives its entire life on the pet and it takes about 3 weeks for a mite egg to develop into an adult mite. The adult mites are very mobile and can live for some time off of a dog or cat, which enables it to be fairly contagious.

The most common sign of ear mite infection is shaking of the head and ears. Dogs may also scratch at their ears, rub their face and in severe cases may even cause bleeding sores behind their ears in their effort to relieve the discomfort from the mites. The intense itching associated with these mites is thought to be due to a hypersensitivity reaction, which is similar to an allergy. Some pets can be infected without showing signs of itching or head shaking, apparently because they don’t develop the hypersensivity reaction.

Ear mites are more commonly diagnosed in cats than they are in dogs but they are a significant cause of ear infections in dogs, too. Dark brown to black debris accumulates in the ears of infected pets and the mites may be visible as small moving white specks on the debris. Secondary infection with bacteria or yeast is common in ear mite infections and may complicate the diagnosis. The mites can live on the skin and some dogs and cats appear to have infections that affect only the skin, causing small sores to develop in affected areas. It is important to treat the ears for mites and the whole pet with a product that is capable of killing the mites. Most flea and tick products will kill ear mites on the skin.

In multiple pet households it is important to treat all the pets and to clean the environment, considering the use of premise control insecticides in persistent cases. Ear mites are susceptible to many medications, including pyrethrins, rotenone, fibronil, thiabendazole and ivermectins. It is necessary to treat for at least three to four weeks in most instances to be sure to kill the adult mites and any eggs that may hatch later.

Many veterinary clients treat their dog’s ears with over-the-counter products for ear mites based on the presence of ear inflammation or exudate in the ears, doing this for weeks or months prior to giving up and having their dog’s ears examined. There are a number of causes of ear infection in dogs and it is best to have your vet examine your dog’s ears to determine if the cause of ear irritation is ear mites or another infection. Doing this can save your dog from weeks of pain or discomfort.

If you are buying a small breed puppy you need to know about the risk of Hypoglycemia. It is always easier to prevent than treat it. Hypoglycemia is a condition where the blood sugar drops to an abnormally low level. This usually occurs when the puppy uses up all its stored energy by playing for extended periods of time without resting and having time for it to replenish. Small puppies and puppies less than 4 months are more prone to this. They have tiny digestive system and can only store a little bit of food ( which is energy) in their bodies at a single time. Always make sure your puppy is eating, even if only small amounts, around ever 3- 5 hours.

Too much playing for a long period of timeisnt good for smaller puppies. They tend to lose their energy very fast, possibly causing low blood sugar. Small puppies must replenish their energy more frequently than larger puppies. Play with your puppy for short period of time, and then let them rest. They need it just like babies. Tiny puppies tire more easily.

Sometimes a puppy may play so much that it gets too tired to even eat . Your puppy must be eating well. If your puppy is not eating his dry puppy food give him can food, cooked liver, baby food with meat. Your puppy can not go hours without eating. Its your responsibility to see that your puppy is getting enough rest and eating several times a day.

It is not a good idea to show your new baby off too much and let him/her be handled a lot during travel for long periods with them until they get older. These are babies and must be treated as such. Puppies can sometimes get stressed from leaving their pitter mates and the only home they know so don’t be startled if they will not eat right away. Symptoms of hypoglycemia ( will vary depending on how low and how fast the puppy’s blood sugar) Lethargy weakened, head tilting, restlessness, trembling, disorientation, slow breathing, convulsions or seizures. Be prepared always have something on hand like Nutri-Cal, Corn syrup, Honey

If your puppy is acting strangely, you should assume it is due to hypoglycemia and treat it accordingly…no damage can be done by treating possible Hypoglycemia. If your puppy is not hypo, your treatment may raise the blood sugar for a few hours, but if your puppy is hypoglycemic, you just saved its life.

Wednesday October 24, 2001
Luxating Patella
Race Foster, DVM
Marty Smith, DVM
Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc.

A dog from one of the smaller breeds runs across the yard chasing a tossed ball. In mid-stride, it yelps in pain and pulls its left hind leg off of the ground. After a second, he continues limping on in three-legged fashion. After ten minutes, the rear leg drops back down to the ground and he uses it normally. This episode occurs maybe once a week. It never really seems to bother him that much – a yip of pain, a short period of lameness, and in a few minutes he is back to his old self. Typically, he is a small or toy breed such as a Lhasa Apso, Pekingese, Pomeranian, Poodle, or Boston Bull.

A luxating patella may affect some animals much more severely, They may hold the leg up for several days and show considerable discomfort. Dogs who have a luxating patella on both hind legs may change their entire posture, dropping their hindquarters and holding the rear legs farther out from the body as they walk. Those most severely affected may not even use their rear legs, walking by balancing themselves on their front legs like a circus act, holding their hindquarters completely off the ground.

Normal knee anatomy The patella is the bone we know as the knee cap. A groove in the end of the femur allows the patella to glide up and down when the knee joint is bent back and forth. In so doing the patella guides the action of the quadriceps muscle in the lower leg. The patella also protects the knee joint. Looking at the lower front portion of the femur (the thigh bone) in a normal dog, you will notice two bony ridges that form a fairly deep groove in which the patella is supposed to slide up and down. These structures limit the patella’s movement to one restricted place and, in so doing, control the activity of the quadriceps muscle. The entire system is constantly lubricated by joint fluid. It works so that there is total freedom of motion between the structures.

What occurs when the patella is luxated? In some dogs, because of malformation or trauma, the ridges forming the patellar groove are not prominent, and a too-shallow groove is created. In a dog with shallow grooves, the patella will luxate (jump out of the groove) sideways, especially toward the inside. This causes the leg to ‘lock up’ with the foot held off the ground. When the patella luxates from the groove of the femur, it usually cannot return to its normal position until the quadriceps muscle relaxes and increases in length. This explains why the affected dog may be forced to hold its leg up for a few minutes or so after the initial incident. While the muscles are contracted and the patella is luxated from its correct position, the joint is held in the flexed or bent position. The yip is from the pain caused by the knee cap sliding across the bony ridges of the femur. Once out of position, the animal feels no discomfort and continues its activity.

Which dogs are at risk of having a luxated patella? Smaller breeds of dogs, especially Miniature and Toy Poodles, have the highest incidence of patella luxation. Genetics can play a role. In certain breeds that have extremely short legs such as the Basset or Dachshund, patellar luxation is thought to be secondary to the abnormal shape of the femur and tibia. The curvatures of the bones in these breeds work in conjunction with the forces of the quadriceps muscles to displace the patella to the inside. Please do not misunderstand – not all members of these breeds are affected with patellar luxation, only a small portion.

What are the symptoms? Most dogs are middle-aged, with a history of intermittent (on-again-off-again) lameness in the affected rear leg(s). An affected dog commonly stops and cries out in pain as he is running. The affected leg will be extended rearward, and for a while the dog is unable to flex it back into the normal position.

What are the risks? Uncorrected, the patellar ridges will wear, the groove will become even shallower and the dog will become progressively more lame. Arthritis will prematurely affect the joint, causing a permanently swollen knee with poor mobility. Therefore, a good evaluation needs to be done by your veterinarian early in the condition to prevent long-term arthritic crippling.

Treatment for Luxating Patellas As would be expected, medical therapy has little corrective ability in this disorder and surgery is therefore required and is the treatment of choice. A surgical treatment is not necessary in every individual with this condition. Surgery can alter both the affected structures and the movement of the patella. The groove at the base of the femur may be surgically deepened to better contain the knee cap. The knee cap itself may be “tied down” laterally (on the outside) to prevent it from deviating medially (toward the inside). The bony protuberance at the site of the attachment of the quadriceps tendon on the tibia may be cut off and then re-attached in a more lateral position. All of these procedures work well and the type performed depends on the individual case and the clinician. The animal should respond quickly after surgery and is usually completely recovered within thirty days, using its legs in normal fashion.

Breeding Considerations Because of the strong genetic relationships, we really feel that animals with this disorder should not be used for breeding. They can still be excellent pets – and those that do require surgery will usually lead perfectly normal lives without any restrictions on activity.